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ClodZilla 2

  I ordered this chassis directly from Eric the owner at ESP.  Right off
  the bat I had this truck customized.  I opted out of the four-wheel
  steering and convinced him to make the first ever ESP rear-steering
  lock-out.  I also added the floating shock kit, sway bars and the
  ClodZilla 4 battery mounts.  I opted out of the aluminum body
  mounts due to bad past experiences with them bending.  I also
  decided that I would not need the upper radio tray mounts since
  I wanted to lower the center of gravity.

In the upper picture, I built up the chassis thinking I would get it ready to run. I took a ClodZilla 4
radio tray and installed it where the batteries were suppose to mount.  Since the Clodzilla 2, 3, & 4
all use the same lower chassis plate, I knew the Zilla 4 battery mounts would work.  All this lowered the center of gravity greatly!   I also installed the Team Associated T-Maxx shocks on the chassis since
they were what I was going to use.

I then chopped the rails to make them shorter by about one inch. I figured I didn't need them as long
since I'm not using the original shock mounts. This also stopped the hardware on the floating shock kit
from getting hung up on the chassis rails.  The body mounts stayed in the original location, I chopped
the rails just after that. Next I drilled some holes to put the cross members in since I had chopped off
the two end support mounts.

Next I drilled out my floating shock kit to 6mm hole and added the special order 3x6mm flanged
BigBallBearings. This ClodZilla 2 now has ball bearing floating shock kit!

Next I worked on the servo mount. ESP's style is over the motor. You attach the servo with servo tape
and zip ties. I never really cared for the method of attaching, but I do like the placement!

I made an mount out of some scrap fiberglass board and a extra servo mount out of my RC10GT. I had to do some grinding, drilling and taping! I'm really pleased with the outcome! Which is a first for something I've made. It almost looks professional and its pretty solid too!

Around this time I sent out the chassis for this project, and Project Gecko's parts to get anodized black.

  From the start I knew I wanted to use an eight cell battery pack, 
  but I knew mounting it would not be easy.  As much as I like the
  Zilla 4 battery mounts, I did not like how you used a zip-tie to hold the
  battery pack in place.  So I decided I would use some G10 fiberglass as
  a battery mount.  I cut the G10 fiberglass to the size I needed. Then I
  had to wait for the chassis to get back for fitting so I could drill the
  mounting holes.  I partially assembled the battery pack. Last two cells
  were not attached since I wasn't sure of the placement at the time.

Batteries are Team Orion GP-3300 SP2 V-Max Plus RDS cells.  I'm using Team Orion Gold battery bones,
and Team Orion gold connectors. I also tried the Novak soilder for the first time.

The black parts between the batteries are Bolink Pan Car battery mounts. There pretty cool, however
you need to make a custom pack to use them. They screw down to the battery tray. I do need a small
spacer under them though.

Around this time I ordered a bunch of parts to go on this truck.  In the
picture you will see the new Futaba FM radio, Team Orion Method-R
motors, body clips.  Duratrax body mounts, Badhorsie shock booties,
and an BRP Antenna whip.

Since my shock booties arrived, I decided to install them on the Team Associated shocks. I also thought about how I could make the antenna whip match the truck.  In its clear state with the antenna wire showing, I thought it looked Fugly.  My solution was simple.  I took an extra shock bootie, turned it inside out, and sewed one end shut.  I cut off the excess and turned it right side out. Slipped it over the antenna whip and WOW!  It looked sharp!


  Next I dyed the Super Rooster case black.  I even dyed the Trinity
  servo saver black to match.  This trucks main theme was to be black.


At some point the chassis parts came back all anodized black.  During
this period I have a lack of pictures unfortunately.  I started working
on finishing up the assembly of my battery pack and its mount.  The
mount took allot of shaping which actually was rather simple to do
with my dremal.  The pack fit perfectly with the mount and has no
movement now.   Took me a while, but I was even able to find some
heat shrink tubing to go around the pack.  After this I installed all the
components together and the chassis was finally taking shape.

  At this point I painted up the stock wheels to match the chassis and
  installed the tires I would finally use.  They are Duratrax Diamond-Z
  Spikes.  An old tire that was discontinued years ago, but is still one
  of my favorites!

  Since the body I had painted for this did not fit,  the truck sat for a
  good while while I decided on what body to use.  I ended up going
  with a Parma Chevy Step Side body to keep up the old school look.

So on December 31st I masked up the body.  Let me tell you, the mask kit included was junk.  Too short
for the side windows and too long for the windshield.  While painting my air brush was acting up.  It
would either have no paint or too much paint coming out.  I'm told it was do to the air being so cold.

I let it dry over night and cut it out on Jan 1st.  Put some body mounts on and I tried attaching it.
While the body was long enough to fit on the chassis, the floaters hit on parts of the body.  So I
had to find some really long body mounts for the rear, and put some spacers under the ones in
front.  Even if the body is a little higher than I wanted, I still think it turned out awesome!

I'm now too afraid to drive this beast!

Parts on this truck

  • Team Orion Wire
  • Team Orion Shock Oil
  • Team Orion Locking Body clips
  • Team Orion Method-R Motors (16x2)
  • Team Orion V-Maxx Plus 8 cell 3300mah battery
  • Stock wheels (painted black)
  • Duratrax Diamond Z-Spike Tires (Discontinued)
  • Sassy Chassis or ESP Steering Bell crank (Discontinued)
  • Custom G-10 Battery tray
  • Robinson Racing Pinions
  • BRP Antenna Whip